Tuesday, February 2, 2010

A Trip to the Tailor

裁縫達人A tailor shares the secrets of his trade 想知道裁縫業界的商業機密嗎?聽裁縫師娓娓道來吧 A tailor shares the secrets of his trade by Simon Stopps

SC: How does one become a tailor?
JL: In the past, becoming a tailor meant completing an apprenticeship with an experienced tailor. I apprenticed with a cutter from Shanghai for six years. Now, there is a system of tests and licenses for tailors.


SC: What questions should people ask a tailor when they are having clothes made?
JL: It depends who the person is. If they are a student, they might want to ask about price. If that is less of a concern, they might ask questions about style, material and quality.


SC: What's the difference between a store-bought suit and a tailor-made suit?
JL: There are a lot of differences. You see, there are many kinds of body types. During fittings, a tailor figures out how to make the suit fit you perfectly, so you feel comfortable all over. They also leave extra material so the suit can be adjusted later if you gain or lose weight. You don't do a fitting when you buy a store-bought suit. They just take your measurements and then select the pre-made suit that is closest to your size. Then you try it on and see if you like it. That's OK if you are a standard size. But if you aren't, you will always have problems with ready-made suits.

SC: Are there differences in quality?
JL: There are often big differences in the quality of material. Tailors tend to use higher quality materials like cashmere, and they line the suits with silk. We also use inserts that are made out of horsehair. Horsehair inserts help the suit keep its shape and avoid wrinkles.
Ready-made suits will often use lower quality materials like polyester/wool blends. They also use paper linings and will lose their shape if they get wet. Another big difference is that ready-made suits are machine-made. They are both cut and sewn by machine. Tailor-made suits are cut and sewn by hand.
SC: There are many tailors, so how do you know which ones are good and which aren't?
JL: You have to try and see; you can't just trust a shop that says it is good. If a tailor is good, people will introduce their friends to the shop. Their business will grow by word of mouth.
SC: Do you have any advice for our students?
JL: Yes, Choosing a tailor will save you a lot of trouble. If you go to a tailor, you know your suit will fit you well. And if it is a good suit, it will last you a long time.
More Information
Here's one more question for our expert:
Q: How has the tailoring business changed over the forty years you've been a tailor?
A: The biggest thing is the quality of the cloth. Years ago we used a lot of polyester because it wears well and doesn't wrinkle. But it doesn't breathe and can be uncomfortable. Now the quality of material has improved a lot.
Grammar
If that is less of a concern, they might ask questions about style, material and quality.
less of a concern-not something to worry about.
If that is not something to worry about, they might ask questions about style, material and quality.
With the convenience of cell phone technology, being unreachable is less of a concern for most people these days.
Not being able to shower is less of a concern for Kathy than for Susan (shower for Susan is concerned).

Vocabulary
apprentice(v)- is a student or a learner who studies under someone to learn a particular skills.
apprenticeship- is a time period, during the period of time to learn that skill.
*Greg apprenticed with his uncle, who was a talented carpenter.
*He worked for 2 years as Trump's apprentice(n).
Pre-made- These pre-made curtains are a lot cheaper than custom-made ones.
*There are many pre-made e-cards for you to choose from at this website.
fitting(n)- fitting (v)-
We'll start the play's costume fittings(n) next week.
tailor-a person who is making or fixing clothing by hands.
line-此不是指“排队”此是指“给衣服做襯裡。或是里面扑满了东西。
* The tailor lined the jacket with silk.
*The expensive coat was lined with fur.
*The fitting-room was lined with wall-to-wall mirrors.装满了
blend- mixed, mix with something, not pure.混纺,混合物,(v)混合
*The sheet's fabric is a blend of linen and cotton.
*His favorite blend of coffee is scarcely found in Asia.
*A delightful blend of oriental fragrance.
by word of mouth-口耳相传
*Rumors of Shawn being fired spread quickly throughout the company by word of mouth.
*She was informed by word of mouth. 透过口头的传达被通知
cashmere-very fine and soft wool
silk- a material, very soft , very thin but very strong insert (v)-putting something into something else. (n)- a piece of something underneath.襯墊

Chat room
custom-made- made-to-order, 定制的made according to the customer requested.
pre-made=ready-to-wear=off-the-rack,预制的,现成的,从架子上拿下来就可穿的, rack-架子。
tailor-made=裁缝师傅made only with cloth, something to do with clothing only.
custom-made=定制的,量身打造的,照顾客要求去制作的,不限于衣服。can be made with all kinds of materials, for car, ship, table, chair, sofa, house....
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suits-top jacket and pants together we call suits.西装
If a person is wearing only a top of suits, the pants is not match with top in color, material..., we say that he wear a suit jacket, or jacket.--you can call all the top outfit a jacket, including formal suits' top.
"suits" call a group of people is looking down them, most time use on the high management, means those people who wear suits but making merciless decisions.
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needle phrase-
"needle someone"-means bother someone.
stop needle someone- means stop bothering someone.
You are needling me, stop needle me.
thread phrase-
hanging by a thread-you are berry able to do something, you are almost giving up on something. 快撑不住了
stitch phrase-
a stitch in time save nine- means small tear repair it right away before gets worse.

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